PWC OFFSHORE, PWC Endurance Racing 
The Premiere Site for The Personal Watercraft Offshore Racer, Rider and Enthusiast
ULTRA 250X Page
Also take a look at the Greenhulk site about 250X mods and feedback, there is a great deal of information on that site also! 

General Feedback & Observations:

Disclaimer:  The following information is opinion and editorials based on our exposure to riding the ULTRA 250X offshore and feedback received from other riders.  Any "recommendations" should be implemented at your own risk.  We are not mechanics.  Feedback does not necessarily represent the opionis of PWCOFFSHORE.com suppliers and owners.  These are strictly observations, opinions and feedback from offshore enthusiasts and could be incorrect in terms of specific accuracy.  We are not mechanics.  Any testing done was not done in a scientific manner.  Please do not take anthing you read on this site or page as guidance from a professional.  We are not PWC mechanics.   Modifications made to your craft could result in the loss of your manufacturer's warranty.   

There are six ULTRA 250's and one 260X on our team and we have had exposure to and ride other ULTRA 250's. 
Yes, we ride in the ocean just about every weekend.  This appears to be the boat to own for offshore endurance racing.  We are very impressed with the craft's hull, torque and speed.  Kawi got a lot right with this craft!  

8/15/2007:  ULTRA250X Recall on fuel lineRecommendations regarding preventative maintenance on this craft:

One of our riders has over 200 hours on a stock craft in the ocean, we have learned a great deal about this craft. Here are some maitainance items to consider.
1. Suggest you replace the steering cable at 100 hours
2. We suggest you replace the pulley and the belt tensioner wheel at no more than 200 hours
3. Change the motor oil very often
4. Inspect the pump bearings every 20 hours, consider replacing the bearings and grease every 25 hours   

What's new for the ULTRA in 2008 compared o the 07?
1.  Crank case breather block offs to come stock, one water box only that is centered, different tune/ECU, exhaust exit point to be on the right vs. the left - smaller exit exhaust hole to assist in dealing with back pressure, ventilation system in front bucket to allow for water to go down into the hull vs. possibility of getting into intake. 

What is new for the ULTA260X?1. Higher compression pistons / additional ring on the piston
2.  More timing
3. Mod that increases oil temp to assist with potential of blow by issues 
4. Mods to the fuel / air ratio Speed

007 250X:
1. Top speed with our 200 pound rider: 66 (Ocean, 74 degrees/GPS)
2. Top speed of our 148 pound rider: 67.8 mph (Ocean, full tank, RPM consistently in mid 7800's)
3. Top speed varies but we are seeing 64 to 67.8, GPS not radar gun (Ocean)
5. RPM varies from 7600 to mid 7800's rpm6. 9/1/2007:  With two degree pump wedge, gained speed with 200 pd rider - now at 66 mph. 

10/4/2007:  200 Pound rider GPS at 68 mph (upgraded impellar and 2 degree wedge played major role in this) Handling 250 & 260X:
1. The hull is probably the best suited for chop and offshore riding of any craft in our group.
2. Stability is the best we've encountered for standing riders / the adjustable steering is a nice feature for offshore riding and taller riders. 
3. The craft is a little front heavy resulting in the craft cannonballing through chop (pitch combined with weight).   We do not know if a pump wedge is the answer yet - we may gain a little less than 1 mph with 1 degree but may be a less stable ride (we recommend for lake riding, but not for the ocean/offshore endurance riding). 

9/1/2007: 
1. The 2 degree pump wedge serves us well with flat water, not bad in chop. 
2 degree may be too much with rough water as it results in a lack of hook-up.  Also keep in mind that this feedback comes from our two riders that are 200 pounds.  If you are 175 or less, consider trying the 1 degree wedge first.   Note that we are not doing this test with a modified ride plate.      
3. Stock boat on stock boat (out of the box), we don't think this craft can be beaten in the ocean due to hull size, stability and horsepower. 
4. This craft leans like a motorcycle and turns well for a craft of its size.  You will be pleasantly surprised.  
5. Sponsons are remarkably stable and cut well for a craft of this size.

9/30/2007 - the 2 degree wedge is definitely giving us speed however we are losing hookup in larger chop.  We also have a 1 degree wedge ready for when the seas are up.

R&D Crankcase Ventilation System Installed (fuel oil seperation) on 1/23/2008:
1.  Not too difficult to install. 
2.  Installed two lines
3.  Will provide you with performance feedback once tested

Port and Polish:  1/10/2008
1.  Head ported and polished - 17 hours of labor
2.  Minor sound difference - deeper sound
3.  Engine feels much more efficient
4.  Possible 1/2 mile per hour gain - still testing
5.  Seeing more exhaust - likley due to more efficient exiting process. 

Sponsons 8/2/2007:
1.  Installed Worx sponons. 
2.  Most aggressive setting.  Aggressive, sticks in turns well.  Most aggressive setting is no good for higher speeds.  
3.  9/1/2007: Least aggressive settings in open ocean at WOT on a relatively smooth day, appears to assist in very small speed gain, appears to enable to bow to come up a little further off the water. If you ride exclusively offshore, stay stock with sponsons

Handlebars, 10/25/2007:
1.  Installed TBM Handlebars on one of our ULTRA250X on 10/25/2007 (Renthal Bars)
2.  Tested in the Ocean - our 6 ft. 2 in rider really likes this modification!  The TBM system is very high and conducive to stand up riders (most offshore riders are) and if you're over six (6) feet tall, this is a good modification for the stand up rider and recommended.
3.  Although tall, the TBM system is not awkward while sitting.
4.  Recommend wide handlebars for stability (we're using Renthal).
5.  Suggest you buy the full system, the forks can be rather tall that could stress the already potentially weak stock bushings - suggest you buy the base plate also.  Can get expensive, be prepared.  For our 6 ft 2 in rider, we thought it was well worth it.

Ride Plate:
1.  We are seeing performance gains from after market ride plate on the ULTRA - just shaving the plate down.   
2.  7/1/2007 - RIVA is marketing a plate (claiming 2 mph increase), R&D's plate forthcoming.  Have not tested either
3.  Hearing that the RIVA plate is good for straight line speed increase in flat water. 
4.  Hearing that the RIVA plate does a nice job of getting the bow our of the water / too much bow out not good in rough
5.  We do not have this mod however it appears to be a good mod for straight line speeds in the lake.  Recommend against putting the RIVA ride plate on with any degree wedge - too much bow out of the water.  

Two (2) Degree Pump Wedge:
1.  On order / using Kawi stock/ standard wedge for the KAWI LX version.  
2.  Saw another 200 pound rider gain approx 2 mph using the pump wedge.  Small loss of stability.  At this point, we don't recommend 2 full degrees for smaller/lighter riders.  Too much bow out of the water.  Test for yourself for comfort level. 
3.  9/1/2007:  Installed 2 degree wedge, 200 pound rider likes it for mild chop or smooth water.  Speed increase.  Have to walk forward in tray if you encounter rough.
4.  9/28/2007 - team did a fairly smooth (2 foot chop with occasional 3 to 4 footer) 70 mile ocean run today - 2 degree wedge did OK with speed gain with 200 pound rider.  Little loss of hookup.    
5.  10/4/2007 - chop encountered with 2 degree wedge resulted in a little too much air.  One (1) Degree Pump Wedge

1/12/2008: 
1.  Downgrading to 1 degree wedge 
2.  Getting too much air in rough water, downgraded to 1 degree

Intake Grate:
1.  Installed R&D intake on one of our ULTRA250's - still testing.
2.  8/5/2007 - R&D intake grate very good in chop (recommended for chop).   
3.  Fairly smooth water - stay stock. 

Fuel:
1.  The craft only takes 91 octane (there was some confusion around this).  91 only!! 
2.  We are noticing considerable fuel consumption. 
3.  Full throttle (WOT) from Long Beach to Catalina (28 miles takes 11.4 gallons / 91 octane at WOT).  250hp is not cheap, the ponies are thirsty! 
4.  The fuel warning alarm sounds at approximately 7 gallons remaining.  
5.  The bottom line is this craft is quick, fast and stable and at well over 900 pounds dry, drinks the fuel at WOT. 
6.  Note:  We appear to be burning more fuel in one hour at WOT than the owner's manual states (take our open ocean riding into consideration, however).       
7.  We believe you have access to approximately 20.6 gallons of fuel without the R&D fuel pickup valve
8.  We believe you have access to approximately 22 gallons of fuel with the R&D fuel pickup valve.
9.  HERE IS WHAT YOU ALL HAVE BEEN ASKING - THE ULTRA250X WILL CONSUME 21.48 GALLONS OF FUEL FROM LONG BEACH TO CATALINA AND BACK AT FULL THROTTLE the entire way.  R&D fuel intake used.  This means you must top off fuel at an angle on the ramp prior to making the trip.      

Fuel Smell In Oil with the 250X:
1.  Yes, we still smell fuel in the oil. We are wondering if the rings are taking longer to seal than most craft or if its just a byproduct of a supercharged engine.  Probably the latter but we will see.  Leak down test anyone? 
2.  As of July of 2007, we are still smelling fuel in the oil.
3.  We are still changing the oil frequently due to fuel in oil, approximately every 8 - 10 hours.
4.  We are now changing it every 5 hours, yes every five hours.  There is a fuel in oil issue we are encountering in two of our ULTRA's.
5.  As of 9/1/2007, our approach is to change the oil as soon as we smell fuel in the oil.  
6.  Multiple oil changes - we are changing as soon as we smell fuel in the oil.      

Engine Oil with 250X:
1.  We started our running Synthetic Blend 10/40 and are changing the oil about every 10 hours. 
2.  The oil has a fuel like smell to it.  Remember, we are running these craft at full or close to full throttle for 60 miles at a time.  We are transitioning to Amsoil full synthetic shortly.  Note that we are seeing the oil get black at about 7 hours, not entirely sure what is causing this high carbon removal so quickly into the oil's life.     
3.  May 15, 2007: Upgraded one of our ULTRA's to Amsoil Marine full synthetic 10W40 at 29 hours.  Will let you know if we see a performance increase. 
4.  July 2, 2007: Another oil change at 37 hours (that's five oil changes).  Amsoil full synthetic 10/40.
5.  We recommend full synthetic for the 250X.
6.  Another oil change at 8/5/2007
7.  Another oil change at 8/28/2007
8.  Another oil change at 9/3/2007 (all of these oil changes are on the same craft).
9.  Oil change on 9/8/2007
10.  Oil change on 9/18/2007
11.  Oil change on 9/30/2007  
12.  Oil change on 10/27/2007 (60 hours)I AM NO LONGER LISTING EVERY DATE - I CHANGE THE OIL AFTER ALMOST EVERY RIDE DUE TO BLOW-BY.Installed R&D Crankcase Ventilation System in Jan of 08 - will let you know impact.
13.  R&D Crankcase ventilation works well, less fuel in oil  Still smell fuel in oil after some hard rides.  Still change oil regularly but the system anables you to get more out of your oil, i.e. you don't have to change it as much.  Smell your oil dip stick, if you have the heavy smell of fuel - we suggest you change your oil. Better yet watch for rising oil levels. 

Oil Level with 250X:
1.  After changing your oil, you should extract 4 to 4.5 quarts out.  If you extract more, you are overfilling and robbing performance from your engine - this is a performance tip.   Note:  Remember to adjust the tongue so that your craft is oriented down when extracting oil.  When checking the oil, ensure the engine is level by using and small level placed on the valve covers and adjusting the trailer tongue until your engine is level.  
2.  The full level is in the middle between the 2 dots when hot and at the bottom dot when cold. 
3.  If you fill it to the top dot, you are a half quart high and impacting performance.  
4.  If overfilled, it is possible that oil can get into the inter cooler resulting in lost efficiency and less that 65 mph speeds. 
5.  We are hearing that to fix the problem, you must pull the inter cooler and dump the oil out of the SC and do your best to get it clean. 
6.  Kawasaki has purposely engineered the craft to allow a little oil to go from the catch can into the air box to lube the blower and coat the fins inside the inter cooler, ultimately slowing corrosion (this is a good thing for those of us who ride offshore). 
7.  Do not overfill.  When the oil is overfilled, oil can get into the air box and gets trapped in the inter cooler. This is caused by excess windage from the crank when overfilled. The excess windage can cause power loss.  
8.  Excess oil in the inter cooler reduces the efficiency of the IC resulting in a loss of power.
9.  We are being told that you can't place the little filter on the top of the oil catch can.  The top of the catch can must  return back to the intake side of the Supercharger.  
10: 5/6/2007:  Lower oil levels (per above) appears to be assisting performance. 
11.  Do not use after market oil filters on the ULTRA, only use Kawi stock oil filters!!
12.  8/5/2007:  We recommend filling to just on or just above the cool mark at cool (stock pistons)
13.  Friendly suggestion, when changing the oil we recommend you add three (3) quarts, then check (on level ground w/level) and add small quantities of oil until you get to the appropriate mark/oil level on your dip stick. 

Spark Plugs:
1.  One of our ULTRA's fowled out a plug at 29 hours. Replaced plug.  
2.  If your craft is coughing, consider changing your plugs.  
3.  For now, we recommend only using the stock Kawi plugs. 

After Market Exhaust:
1. One of our craft has the RIVA Exhaust on an ULTRA 250. 
2. The sound is magnificent (!) but we see very little if any performance increase. 
3. It requires removal of one of the water boxes.  The water box is so heavy that removal causes the craft to feel a little heavy on the opposite side of where the water box was.   The "con" is that we feel the weight difference when we get air.  The "pro" is the sound and significant decrease in weight via removal f the heavy water box, and it is very heavy.      
4.  Requires some cutting to install.

Supercharger Belt:
1. We have had a few come off, usually happens if you get the belt wet.   
2. Note that if you spray corrosive protective lube on your engine, be careful to avoid spraying lube on your supercharger belt.   The slippage caused by the belt will cause lost boost. 
3. We are backing off the throttle while airborne as the supercharge spins at an extremely high rev causing potential risk (?) of losing the belt. 
4. Regularly backing off the throttle while in the air take some getting used to.   

R&D Billet Hub Kit and Belt Tentioner Wheel:
1.  Installed on 9/25/2007
2.  Stronger than stock part - recommended. 
3.  Recommend you buy the two tools if you buy the part  
4.  It is critical that the belt tension is accurate!! Make sure that you spend time getting it right.

R&D BOV Block off 9/25/2007:
1.  Installed on one of our craft on 9/25/2007
2.  9/27/2007:  Minor performance gain however we are unsure
3.  Minor perfomance gain noted.
4.  We recommend this mod

Exhaust Line To Water Box Coming Loose:
1.  We have seen one craft that had its exhaust line connecting to the water box coming loose.
2.  Watch this line, inspect to ensure it is tight.  This appears to be found mostly on relatively new craft.
3.  If the exhaust line comes off, exhaust will fill the engine compartment, take away fresh air to the engine and the engine will stall.   
4.  Have seen this same issue on a few postings on the net.   

Modifications To Blow off Valve:
1.  We are hearing that there is a way to make manual modifications to the existing/stock part on the ULTRA's blow off valve. 
2.  We will post more when we know more.
3.  One of our craft made this change. 4/22 test represents an increase in RPM and a performance increase was noted.
4.  5/6/2007:  This modification appears to be giving one 250X additional RPM.  We like it.

Is Your Tailer Ready For The Weight Of The ULTRA 250?1.  Fully loaded with fuel and your gear you are pushing 1050 pounds.  
Check the rating of your trailer to ensure you're not exceeding your trailer's safe hauling weight. 

Battery Location In Bow:
1.  Check your battery connections frequently to ensure they are tight.  Make sure they are tight. 
2.  The pounding inflicted on the craft while offshore riding and the location of the battery in the bow can result in the connection coming loose.
3.  If your connection is loose and the cable comes loose and loses its connection for a split second, the craft's engine will completely stop - not a good thing.  Happened to us on 4/15. 

Maintenance Tip:
1.  After the salt water ride, open the front access hatch cover and remove the ECU bracket.
2.  Place the ECU and wiring harness in a safe place so you can rinse the fuel tank and air intake housing.
3.  Salt can also accumulate in this area via the steering cables and the fuel tank access hatch cover under the glove compartment where salt water can come into the craft. 
4.  Apply marine grease on the two bolts and the surrounding plate holding the air box bracket close to / near the fuel tank access hatch.  
5.  These two areas accumulate saltwater too easily so ensure you rinse this area well.  
6.  Use a dry-vac to get any additional water out of the hull.

Suggestions for the After market:
1.  A secure billet fuel bladder mounted in the front of the craft  / front storage area.

Melting T on the 2007 Models:
1. We have seen a craft that has a melted "T" link on the top of the head. This is where the two crankcase breather tubes come together with the "T" connector that connects to the air box tube then runs to the air box.
2. We see one melting and remain baffled regarding why. The craft we are having this issue with is not completely stock. We do not know if it is an issue caused by the modification or something else. We remain baffled and continue to attempt to find the origin of the problem. 

R&D Air Breather Kit:1. 
1.  R&D intercooler breather and engine compartment breather - we like it.     
2.  Note that this due to the breather/filter underneath the glove box, you run the risk of getting a little water in the engine compartment if you take hard bow-down turns or submarine. 

R&D Pulley System:
1.  We will likely purchase - have not done so yet.

Supercharger Oil:
1.  We changed it at 67 hours

Overview of Issues we've heard about with the 2007 250X:
1.  Exhaust hose clamps coming loose.
2.  Silicone sealing in pump shoe and grate excessive.
3   Possible oil overfill from the factory or at the dealer.  
4.  Supercharger clutch tensioner bearing fault or bolt coming loose with belt damage. 
5.  Spark Plug failures
6.  Fuel in oil require frequent oil changes.
7.  Melting T on some craft